Don't try to look for SLS and SLES in the ingredients at the back of your bottle of liquid soap, shower gels and shampoos, because most of them have it!
SLS and SLES fall into a chemical group called surfactants. A surfactant is a substance that can bridge the barrier between oil and water. SLS & SLES break down most fats and grease due to their surfactant qualities. That includes the natural grease that your skin produces called sebum. SLS & SLES are bad for skin because they strip the skin of its natural grease, which fills the gaps between skin cells. This allows water to escape causing dry skin and eczema. When you use products with SLS, SLES or any chemically produced surfactant on your skin, hair or body they can cause your skin to dry out, especially if used consistently i.e. washing hands. Products such as liquid soaps, shower gels and shampoos usually contain the highest concentrations of these ingredients. Skin naturally loses water and the skins top layer (the epidermis) is the final barrier to the water loss, and allows water to exit at a rate that you can replenish from drinking water or other beverages. When you wash or apply products with these surfactants, you allow the natural grease which ties the skin cells together to be washed away, which leaves gaps between skin cells, allowing water to escape. If your skin cannot produce the natural grease fast enough to plug the gaps or is continually washed away, water will escape at a much faster rate than you body can replace in the affected section of skin. This is why using SLS or SLES is bad for the skin, it allows water loss and leaves the barrier to water loss broken. This can leave you with dry skin or even eczema.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
Besides being a skin irritant, SLS also dries out your skin. Scientifically speaking, this compound makes your epidermis thinner, increases its turnover rate and water loss, decreases corneocyte (an essential part of your skin barrier!) maturity and size, and speeds up the inflammatory protease activity in your skin.
In layman’s terms, SLS tightens and strips your skin of its natural oils and causes it to flake, sparking itchy skin and scalp, eczema, and dermatitis. As for some, continuous exposure to this ingredient can cause more significant reactions like oilier skin to overcompensate for the loss of natural oils and trigger acne flare-ups from excess oil production.
Furthermore, if you’re someone who suffers from whiteheads and blackheads on the regular, it could have been caused by prolonged exposure to SLS. Shampoos containing this compound also contribute to weakening hair follicles and hair loss. Unfortunately, SLS lingers on your hair long after it’s been washed off, decreasing the strength of your follicles over time.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Albeit milder, SLES can be perceived as a worse ingredient than SLS. Studies show that SLES increases skin irritation, redness, and damage to the skin barrier. Because of its foaming nature, it can create micro-tears in your skin barrier and allow dirt and bacteria to get trapped underneath it, causing acne (just like SLS).
Not only does it cause skin irritation and dryness, but also acts as a potential carcinogen. The main issue with SLES is ethoxylation. During this manufacturing process, SLES may be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, which has the possibility of promoting the formation of cancer.
The fact is—SLES has to be vacuum stripped to avoid contamination, but there is no way of knowing whether corporations do this in their manufacturing process. And we’ve got the receipts! A study showed that 1,4-dioxane was found in 82% of the 76 skincare products tested. Talk about risky behavior.
Even though this is not a proven, direct link to cancer, it’s still best to go SLS and SLES-free. You know what they say—it’s better to be safe than sorry!
What Are The Alternatives to SLS and SLES?
Some notable alternatives to these sulfates include natural remedies. Try to buy soap and shampoo bars over liquid, or opt for oil-based ones. Especially so if you suffer from skin concerns like sensitive skin, dermatitis, rosacea, and psoriasis as sulfates will only make them worse.
Of course, if you can, try to go sulfate-free when buying future skincare products. Sulfates do not play a big part in cleaning, so it’s totally fine if you eliminate them from your routine.
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